For me, Kazbegi was like the Mount Kaf described in fairy tales: in the Caucasus, hard to reach, its peak covered with snow… After my research, using old roads from Soviet times for transportation, needing local Suzuki-style monster 4x4s to reach Gergeti Trinity, and the fact that the signs were in Georgian discouraged me from going alone. That’s why I decided to go with a local tour company. It was more convenient for me, and I got to know a lot of people.
Let’s get started, but first, general information about Kazbegi…
Bonus: You can easily find the tour that suits you on Get Your Guide.
Kazbegi National Park is located on the northern slopes of the Caucasus mountain group, covering a total area of over 8,700 hectares. At 5,047 meters above sea level, Mount Kazbegi (or Mkinvartsveri) is the third highest mountain in Georgia. In addition to being one of the most popular routes for mountain climbers, it also fascinates people because it is surrounded by myths and religious traditions.
Bonus: According to Greek mythology, Prometheus was chained to the side of a mountain in the Caucasus forever as punishment for teaching humanity how to make fire. According to Georgian stories, the place where he was chained was the icy slopes of Kazbegi. Prometheus (known as Amirani in Georgia) was imprisoned in a cave called Betlemi (Bethlehem) at an altitude of 4000 meters. The cave later served as a residence for Orthodox monks. It is even said that they collected valuable sacred relics (Abraham’s tent, Christ’s manger, etc.) in this cave.
The region where earthquakes occur frequently is surrounded by hot springs, acidic and carbonate lakes. Same in Kazbegi.
Kazbegi is also covered by a 135 km2 glacier, making it a great base for ice climbing and mountaineering.
Dariali Gorge (Daryal Pass) is a steep cleft in the mountains connecting Russia and Georgia on the Kazbegi road, stretching 18 km from the Russian border. The pass, which is of great strategic importance, has been in use since 150 BC. In some places, the depth of the cliffs reaches 1,000 meters.
Medieval watchtowers, narrow paths, waterfalls, and wildlife make this an adventure-filled destination. The steep valleys on both sides of the pass are frequented by bird watchers.
First Stop, Jvari Monastery
The first point of the tour, Jvari Monastery, is a sixth-century Georgian Orthodox monastery near Mtskheta in eastern Georgia. It was included in the World Heritage List by UNESCO, along with other historical buildings on Mtskheta. The monastery is a rare example of an early medieval Georgian church that has survived almost unchanged. The church became the founder of its own type, the Jvari type of church architecture, which is common in Georgia and Armenia.
The fact that Georgian monasteries and churches are very old and built with gray stones gives them a mystical atmosphere. When the cloudy, rainy weather is added to this, the degree of mysticism increases. The branches of the Kura River can be clearly seen from the garden of the monastery. I’m sure it offers an incredible view in sunny weather.
Jinvali (Zhinvali Water Reservoir)
Jinvali Water Reservoir, also known as the Lake, is located on the Georgian Military Highway. The dam on it was built in Soviet times, in the 1980s. As Tbilisi was growing rapidly, there was a need for a new water source, and the government decided that the Aragvi Gorge, rich with glacier water, was the perfect location.
Bonus: Local communities have protested the idea of using the Aragvi Gorge for dam construction for two reasons:
- They would have to move into “Krushovka” Apartments provided by the Soviet Union.
- Jinvali region is an archaeological site. Since the city is located at the crossroads of major trade routes, it has been the city of Georgian elites throughout history. Therefore, it has become a rich place with castles, towers and palaces. Although most of these have fallen into ruin over the centuries, the area promises a great archaeological treasure.
Unfortunately, the protests did not disturb the Soviet government, and hundreds of years of history were buried under water. When the water level drops, the church, which was once on a hill overlooking the city, says hello to you from under the dam waters.Although the history of the city has been lost, the lake now fascinates people with its magnificent views and beautiful colors all year round.
Jinvali’nin tadını çıkarıp ciğerlerimizi temiz hava ile doldurduktan sonra bir sonraki durağımıza doğru yola çıkıyoruz.
Ananuri Fortress
You should definitely make time for Ananuri Castle on your way to Kazbegi. Located on the Aragvi River, the complex is one of the best preserved monuments in Georgia. It is 70 km away from Tbilisi and fascinates visitors with its beautiful nature and ancient history.
The Ananuri Architectural Ensemble is one of the best monuments of the late feudal period in Georgia. This region (village) has been used as a residential area since ancient times. However, none of the early structures have survived. The complex, which was used primarily for military purposes, became the residence of Georgian nobles in the 13th century. After the weakening of the central government in Georgia (XVII–XVIII centuries), its strategic importance increased even more. The strengthening and restoration of Ananuri Castle were also done during this period.
The oldest structure of the ensemble is the Khevsurian tower, dating back to the 14th century, located in the center of the upper citadel. Zeda Tsikhe (upper castle) was built in the XVI–XVII centuries, and Kveda Tsikhe in the XVIII century.The large inscription on the left side of the south façade provides important information about the main building.
Bonus: According to a legend; The Tatar army believed that the Georgians, who had to lock themselves in the castle, would not be able to survive for a long time without a food source and would give up in a short time. But they were unaware that the castle had a secret tunnel leading to the river. A few days later, the castle’s guards threw fish into the air to distract the invaders. The Tatar army thus realized that the castle was connected to the outside world through a tunnel and decided to find it. They looked for traces of the tunnel everywhere for a long time, but could not find it.Finally, they caught a woman named Ana from Nuri and asked her to tell them the location of the tunnel. When Ana refused to reveal this secret to the enemies, they tortured her to death. For this reason, Georgians named this castle Ananuri to honor Mother.
Ananuri’s location at the crossroads of trade routes led to the development of trade here. The city was engaged in pottery and fabric production. In the first half of the 19th century, Ioane Batonishvili called the town “butcher town”. Ananuri, the provincial capital in 1803-21, was burned by Russian troops during the 1812 Kakheti uprising.
Lunch Break in Khandoskhevi
Khandoskhevi River is a pitstop for everyone on the way to Gudauri for many reasons and there is only one resort in the surrounding area. The facility offers both hotel and restaurant services. I mean real Georgian food and real taste. The staff is very welcoming and the atmosphere is warm. If you are planning a trip to that part of the country any day, be sure to pass by this place, you will not regret it 🙂
The last place where you can take a breather before passing through Soviet-era roads where the same road is shared for going and coming to Kazbegi 🙂
Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument
In 1783, the Treaty of Georgievsk between the Russian Empire and the Eastern Georgian kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti established Eastern Georgia as a protectorate of Russia. The king swore allegiance to the Russian emperor in exchange for protection and support for the reigning Bagrationi dynasty. But after a few years, these promises turned out to be of little value.
When the Persian ruler Agha Mohammad Khan plundered the Georgian kingdom in 1795, the Russians did not move a muscle to help. Declaring war on Iran and sending troops late to Transcaucasia was the beginning of years of tension between neighboring countries.
Despite all this, the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument was erected by the Soviets in the mountains of northern Georgia in 1983. Famous Georgian architect Giorgi designed it and it is placed in a spot that offers magnificent views of the surrounding landscape.
The Soviet Union spent the year celebrating the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk, and several monuments were built to commemorate the agreement, but not everyone was happy with the festivities. Anti-Soviet Georgians organized protests, and the underground publication Sakartvelo published a special issue highlighting Russia’s disregard for the agreement.
Its huge circular monument overlooks the Devil’s Valley and the Caucasus Mountains. Considered the best ski resort in Georgia, it is located on the Georgian Military Highway between Gudauri and Gergeti (where you can find the Gergeti Trinity Church).
Inside the cylinder monument, a vibrantly colored mural depicts heavily stylized scenes from Georgian and Russian history. The stone arch leading to Devil’s Valley offers visitors an idyllic view, although the name is potentially misleading.
Gudauri
Gudauri, along with Bakuriani, is the main ski area in Georgia and is a resort town in the Kazbegi municipality of Georgia. It is located on the Georgian Military Highway (part of the European Route E117), at an altitude of 2,196 meters above sea level, approximately 120 km from Tbilisi.
The winter season lasts from December to mid-April with an average snow cover of 1.5m. In case of heavy snow in winter, skiing is still possible in May. For example, in the winter of 2005, the snow reached a height of 5 m. I was there in May, and it was suitable for skiing.
The ski area has eight groomed slopes (in blue, red, and black categories) and a total length of 57 kilometers, between 1900 m and 3260 m. The tracks, the longest of which is 5 km, are maintained regularly.
The region is famous for heli-skiing, thanks to the rocks under deep snow on the slopes and the absence of avalanche danger 🙂 A company with a Swiss-Austrian partnership offers skiers and snowboarders up to an altitude of 4,400 m on Mount Kazbek, the Trusso, Ksani, Liachwi and Gudamakari gorges and the most popular places on the Mepiskalo plateau. takes you to destinations.
Gergeti Trinity Church
Gergeti Trinity Church is located near the village of Gergeti in Georgia. The church is located below Mount Kazbek, on the right bank of the Chkheri River, at an altitude of 2,170 meters.
Gergeti Trinity Church was built by an unknown architect in the 14th century and is the only cross-domed church in Khevi province. The separate bell tower dates from the same period as the church itself but is thought to have been built slightly later. Its isolated location atop a steep mountain surrounded by the vastness of nature has made it a symbol for Georgia.
Bonus: Georgian writer Vakhushti Batonishvili (18th century) wrote that in times of danger, valuable relics from Mtskheta, including the Cross of St. Nino, were brought here for safekeeping. During the Soviet period, although all religious services were banned, the church continued to be a popular tourist destination.
The church is a popular crossing point for hikers in the area and is a steep 1.5-hour climb up the mountain. When the roads are covered with snow, the church can only be reached by monster minibuses, which are only available to the local people 🙂 We arrived late at night because we lingered too long during the meal. It wasn’t like what I saw in the pictures, but it was still fascinating. I visited in May, I recommend going in the summer.
The iconic view of the church and Mount Kazbek is one of the best examples of the harmonious combination of architecture and landscape that is so typical of Georgian architecture. Exterior decorations are mainly found around doors and windows.
We have come to the end of another route. See you in the next article 🙂
If you want to learn about Georgia, you may visit the Georgia Page.